The Most Un-Appreciated Fly Cast


To get the U-P curve to happen, just give the cast a little less power than is needed to fully straighten the loop on the forward cast. With the rod in a more vertical position and the loop forming higher and horizontally (A2, A3 & A4 below), it is easy to measure with false casts exactly where the cast is going and how much power is needed.
The power application is much like normal until the later stages of the cast (Photo A4 below), where instead of a power snap or accelerating to a stop the power just fades and allows the loop to collapse into a curve. The rod tip can be dropped here to "stall" the looop and/or line can be shot to widen the curve of the loop.

Obviously, I guess, this cast is good for throwing around obstacles but other casts can give the same effect. Where the under-powered curve really excels is getting slack upstream of your fly in moderate and faster currents, especially when fishing near to straight upstream. Yes, I know you can throw slack upstream with a tuck or puddle cast. But the slack here tends to be at the leader. The hump mend can throw some upstream slack into the line, but it makes a commotion and the slack generally gets thrown right on top of the fish. The U-P curve can position almost any amount of slack upstream of your fly, and position it to the side of your target so that the first thing the fish sees is your fly (not your line).
As far as being inaccurate, that is not a valid criticism. It can be just as accurate as any other cast, but like many others requires a bit of practice. Throwing the cast with a vertical rod rather than a pure side-arm cast significantly enhances control. A strong wind can affect the accuracy of U-P curve cast (as it can any cast), and when it's a headwind the open loop of this cast is a disadvantage in penetrating the wind. But by varying the amount of power early in the casting stroke, the first part of the loop can be thrown tightly to beat the wind (see photo A2) and at the end of the cast the wind can actually help stall the loop. With a headwind, the loop itself can also be thrown right into the water with power - this is not an under-powered curve but it gives the same effect since the loop doesn't straighten before it hits the water.
The under-powered curve can also be thrown to the non-casting side. Just tilt the rod over your head to the opposite side (e.g., to the left for a right-hander) and make that arcing path (shown in drawing, above left) to the other side.
Add the under-powered curve to your bag of tricks - it will fool some fish. Posted by Kent Edmonds. Kent is a freshwater guide in 50 miles southwest of Atlanta and is certified as a casting instructor by the Federation of Fly Fishers. You can reach him through his website - www.flyfishga.com